![]() It was overwhelming to begin with because Karl’s career lasted 65 years. Also read: The problem with celebrating Karl Lagerfeld What was the planning process like? We have treated each garment very democratically. This is his first retrospective and I wanted it to be just about his work and craft, and the only way one can do that is by giving each garment its space, so that there’s no hierarchy. ![]() Sometimes, when I left those shows, I used to be so overwhelmed by the scenography that I used to realise I had not paid much attention to the clothes because the environment was so powerful. He was known for his great extravaganzas, especially at Chanel. ![]() I really wanted the viewer to focus on the complexity and layers of his work. Edited excerpts: Each piece is displayed in clean, neat panels, without frills. In an interview with Lounge, Bolton talks about putting together the show, and Lagerfeld’s legacy. Each piece, whether it’s a glittering skirt suit or a gown with a fish-scale-like train, is a visual treat, showcasing how different countries, including India, art and philosophy influenced his work and explaining what kept him relevant.Īndrew Bolton, the curator in charge of the museum’s Costume Institute Over 150 pieces are on display, accompanied by Lagerfeld’s sketches, documenting his fashion from the 1950s to his final collection in 2019. “We wanted to focus only on his work,” Andrew Bolton, the curator in charge of the museum’s Costume Institute, says on the phone. Karl Lagerfeld: A Line Of Beauty at The Metropolitan Museum of Art in New York, which celebrates his craft, offers an answer. Was it fair to celebrate a person with such problematic views? Small wonder then that when it was announced that the 2023 Met Gala in May would pay tribute to the late designer in the form of a retrospective show and a Karl Lagerfeld-inspired dress code, some weren’t happy. Lagerfeld, who died in 2019 at the age of 85, was also known for his strong views, many of them fat-phobic, racist and sexist. A marketing genius, he often hosted his fashion shows on larger-than-life sets (such as a rocket ship at Paris’ Grand Palais in 2017, or an India-inspired show in 2011, also in the French capital). He did stints at Balmain and Patou, and built his own brand. He was responsible for changing the fortunes of labels like Chanel, Fendi and Chloé. Sure, he revolutionised the merger of hip-hop culture and high fashion and dressed the who’s who of the industry but it was his sharp eye for business, marketing and brand reinvention that kept him popular throughout his 65-year career. If one were to assess Karl Lagerfeld’s contribution to the modern fashion landscape, it wouldn’t really be a new wardrobe.
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